Sat. May 11th, 2024


Isles of the West, Scotland: The mature ones persist in pursuing them along the shore, as if scolding mischievous youngsters seizing control of a bowl of sweets.

On a day wrapped in mist, we meander along a rugged path and traverse the uneven tractor track that unfolds towards the machairβ€”a coastal canvas of sandy grassy allure. Here, early marsh orchids, silverweed, and bird’s-foot trefoil compose a vibrant tapestry. Amidst this natural gallery, a bedraggled ragged robin, its appearance akin to our bantam chicken Willow on a sodden day, steals a moment in our gaze.

Carpets of daisies, flag irises, meadow buttercups, and marsh marigolds form a living border to the bogs. In the boggy ditches, horsetails stand sentinel, while cuckoo flowers and red-stem stork’s bill grace the sandy trail, and cotton grass sways in sync with the breeze. Passing by remnants of rabbit feasts, perhaps claimed by a white-tailed eagle, our journey unfolds to the symphony of lapwings, oystercatchers, redshanks, and snipes. Overhead, Arctic terns assert their territorial claims as we reach the untouched white sandy beachβ€”void of human presence, except for the timeless calls of sea birds and waders.

Unexpectedly, a spectacle unfolds, a flock of birds dancing in the airβ€”unlike the familiar oystercatchers, ringed plovers, or sanderlings. They wear the guise of lapwings, an improbable sight. Swiftly grabbing a phone, I capture their lively chattering and peeping, and an identification app reveals them as turnstones.

Cloaked in snowy-white feathers adorned with distinct black stripes, their chestnut-brown backs boast artistic black blots. Meanwhile, juvenile turnstones sport a subtle palette of light grey with daisy-white and black-beaked elegance. In the realm of seaweed, the turnstones play a delicate dance, hunting insects and hidden treasures. The adults, akin to seasoned ringmasters, assert their dominance, chasing away the spirited juveniles, a scene reminiscent of mischievous children vying for coveted sweets. “Stop being naughty, turnstones!” we jest, captivated by this coastal performance that etches itself into the album of our unique adventures.

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